The only 5 things you should know about Asscher cut diamond

    With an air of old-world sophistication enveloped in the perfect step-cut symmetry, let’s dive into why asscher cut diamond is in a league of its own.


    The secret of buying the perfect diamond ring lies in choosing the correct diamond shape in sync with your personality. The rest will fall into place. We know that finding the perfect diamond cut can prove to be quite a puzzling quest. And today, we’re here to demystify one of the most popular contemporary diamond shapes – the Asscher cut diamond. 

    #1: Evolution of Asscher cut diamond

    The Asscher cut diamond came into being in 1902 in the hands of Joseph Asscher. The original Asscher diamond had 58 facets (flat steps cut in multiple geometric layers). The sharp geometric lines, precise angles, repetitions – all made it the quintessential gem of the Art Deco movement of the 1920s. This is the reason why modern brides may see an Asscher cut diamond ring as their very own vintage style statement.

    A look into Asscher diamond rings remains incomplete without the famous Krupp diamond once owned by Elizabeth Taylor. The 33.19 carat stunner was gifted to the actress by Richard Burton, an engagement ring worth $307,000 at that time. It is currently estimated to be around $9 million! 

    The Asscher diamond rose in popularity during the Art Deco movement thanks to the symmetrical lines and edgy shape of this diamond cut. Creator Joseph Asscher held on to the patent of the Asscher diamond until it expired after World War II. Since then, the shape has been replicated by jewelers all over. Slowly, this precise ‘square emerald diamond shape’ lost some of its vintage charm as inferior poorly-cut Asscher diamonds flooded the market.

    asscher cut diamond
    Royal Asscher Diamond Company

    Some time in 1980s, Queen Juliana of the Netherlands gave the Asscher Diamond Company a royal title and the company rose to fame again. Today the Royal Asscher Diamond Company are Fancy Cut specialists and are regarded as one of the most prestigious diamond companies in the industry.

    In 1999, the company reinvented it original patented cut from the 58 facets to a 74-facet diamond. This increased number of facets, allowed the diamond to bounce light from every angle, resulting in a brilliant kaleidoscopic effect. The new cut was named the Royal Asscher Cut, and it is exclusive to the Royal Asscher jewelry brand.

    Asscher cut diamond has become synonymous with class, elegance, and bold style statements. Right from Kate Hudson’s vintage Art Deco style halo Asscher cut diamond ring to Gwyneth Paltrow’s ring, Hollywood has maintained a close link with this square-shaped diamond.

    asscher cut diamond ringOther notable people who joined the bandwagon of donning the famous Asscher cut diamond are Zooey Deschanel and her 3 carat Asscher diamond engagement ring, Jessica Alba with a 5 carat Asscher diamond engagement ring in a pavé halo setting and Pippa Middleton’s geometric halo Asscher diamond ring. This just goes to show how this unique shape continues to capture the hearts.

    With diamond competitors trying to perfect their diamond cuts, the Asscher shape has come to be recognized as a more symmetrical and brilliant diamond shape

    #2 Understanding the Asscher diamond cut

    An Asscher diamond is essentially a square-shaped diamond with cropped edges, giving it near octagonal appearance. Falling in the genré of step cut diamonds, where the sides resemble a flight of steps, the ingenuity of the design lies in displaying the clarity of the diamond.

    The Asscher diamond has several dominant traits. Although it looks similar to the emerald shape, however, unlike its elongated and rectangular steps, the Asscher shape features square steps on the four corners. Another defining features of the Asscher diamond is the ‘X’ shape that appears on the table of the diamond when viewed from the top. This clear X shape shows the symmetry of the diamond and how the equidistant facets merge perfectly to the center of the culet.2 carat asscher cut diamond ring

    The steps running horizontally around the table descend to the culet offering the viewer a pristine view of the core. (And that’s a reason why Asscher cut diamond should be carefully chosen in Clarity) 

    It is possible to get the perfect symmetry in Asscher diamonds because of the wide step cuts and the high crown. While you may not get the hall-of-mirrors effect that is so prominent in emerald cut diamonds, you will still be awestruck by a brilliantly crafted Asscher diamond with its step-cut facets.

    #3 When Shopping for an Asscher cut diamond ring 

    As with any other diamond, the 4cs i.e., color, cut, clarity, carat play a significant role in choosing an Asscher shape diamond. Picking the perfect Asscher diamond for your ring should not be constrained only to the diamond’s shape. A few other factors that come into play would be the fire and color of the diamond. 

    The brilliance of a diamond lies in its cut quality. Not all jewelers can work with this square step cut diamond. It takes extreme skill and finesse to create an Asscher diamond of superior quality. Owing to the presence of multiple facets, an Asscher cut can give off its signature hallway of mirrors effect only if it has the right depth. We recommend you choose a stone with a depth of 60-68%.

    The reason is simple – the shallower the diamond the larger it will appear. Another crucial selection criterion is to choose a center stone with a narrow or pointed culet and a broader crown. The length-to-width ratio of an ideal Asscher diamond stands at 1:1, but a ratio close to 1:1.4 is good too.  

    asscher diamond Coming to the color, for Asscher diamonds, the standard color band is G-H. However, diamonds in the H and I grades are also excellent budget picks. Then again, if you feel a little experimental, you can always opt for fancy colored diamonds such as yellow and pink. 

    When it comes to clarity, it refers to how clean the diamond is. A clean diamond should have negligible blemishes or inclusions. Due to the step cuts, it’s important that Asscher diamonds rate high on the clarity skills and not reveal inclusions when viewed from the top. So, we recommend stones in VS diamond range, with VS2 being the most premium clarity grade. Anything below VS diamond range will most likely show the inclusions. 

    Finally, we come to the fourth aspect, the carat weight. The higher the weight, the bigger a diamond will appear. This factor is largely determined by your budget. 


    #4 How Asscher cut compares with other diamond shapes?

      • Asscher v/s Emerald shape: The basic difference between the two in the shape – the former being squarish while the latter being more of a rectangle. The Asscher diamond has a smaller table as opposed to the longer table of the emerald diamond resulting in the latter’s more expansive appearance.
        1 carat asscher cut engagement ring
        Devon Asscher Engagement Ring
        1 carat emerald cut engagement ring
        Devon Emerald Engagement Ring

        Emerald shape, thus, will appear larger for the same carat weight of an Asscher diamond. The rectangular stone has a flat culet while Asscher’s possess a pointed one. However, Asscher offers more brilliance for the same reason. You can see it for yourself by comparing a 1.79-carat lab grown emerald cut of E color and VS2 clarity versus a 1.70 carat lab grown Asscher cut of G color and VS1 clarity.

      • Asscher v/s Princess shape: Both are predominantly of the same shape – square, and that’s where the similarity ends. The princess shape has sharp corners while the Asscher has cropped corners adding more angles and a rounded octagonal appearance emitting a softer look.
        2 carat princess cut engagement riing
        Renee Princess Engagement Ring
        2 carat asscher cut diamond ring
        Renee Asscher Engagement Ring


        This is the reason why princess diamonds are more prone to chipping than step-cut diamonds. Also, the Asscher shape is step cut and so, the facets are parallel to the girdle. The princess shape does not have linear cuts.

      • Asscher v/s Cushion shape: The primary distinction between the two shapes lies in the corners. Asscher diamonds are octagonal, having straighter angles while cushion diamonds are more rounded.
        2 carat asscher cut diamond ring
        Presley Asscher Engagement Ring
        1 carat cushion cut diamond ring
        Kaya Cushion Engagement Ring

        Due to the facets and the symmetry, Asscher shape diamonds have a mirrored effect, banking more on the clarity than on the brilliance. Cushion diamonds have a unique soft sparkle.

      •  Asscher v/s Radiant shape: An interesting option for those looking for square diamonds, the radiant shape share a few common aspects with the Asscher shape. While both have octagonal outlines, the radiant shape offers somewhat more scintillation and sharp star-like light compared to Asscher diamonds which give off light in broader bands.
        radiant cut diamond
        Radiant cut diamond

        asscher cut diamond
        Asscher cut diamond

    #5 Price comparison of a 2 carat Asscher cut diamond 

    Asscher diamonds come cheaper than most other diamond shapes as the majority of the rough diamond remains intact. To top it off, if you go for a lab grown Asscher cut diamond you will end up saving up to 40% of what you would typically pay for a natural, earth-mined diamond. Use the savings to get better 4Cs, worthy of your love!

    Lab grown diamonds give you the same brilliance at an economical rate without breaking the bank. A 2 carat natural Asscher diamond of VS2 clarity and F color costs around $14,260 (leading online brand) while a 2 carat lab grown Asscher of same specifications is available for $7789 on LovBe. 


    And here are the ring setting styles that are absolutely made for an Asscher cut diamond…

    Choosing the perfect setting for your Asscher diamond ring is of the utmost importance because that will stay with you for years to come. Not all styles pair well with this center stone. Pro tip: When it comes to Asscher diamond, it’s best to steer clear of bezel setting since it could diminish the brilliance of the diamond.

    Select a setting that draws attention to the prized stone and not on the band. For instance, a classic solitaire Asscher ring is timeless with a touch of filigree swirl design adding the ‘old-world’ charm to the center stone.asscher cut wedding ring

    Or this 1 carat asscher cut diamond ring in channel setting that has a high-set tulip style shank accentuating the center stone magically. The channel set diamonds sweep upwards on either side of the center stone, lighting up the asscher center magically.asscher diamond engagement ring

    An elevated or high set prong setting works the best for an asscher cut diamond ring as it allows the diamond most light. A four-prong setting supporting the center stone set within a halo or pavé band too will produce an added sparkle perfect for the bride who loves bling. Pair it with a diamond eternity band and voila!  

    Final Thoughts

    Due to its facet design, the Asscher cut is more likely to show inclusions and blemishes, so consider the clarity, color and setting as you design your perfect wedding ring. A great way to be sure of the quality of your diamond is to look for IGI certified diamonds that fit your preferred parameters.

    Have questions about shape or other aspects of a diamond? Ask our diamond concierge all your questions. 

    Must Read


    Related Articles


    Please enter your comment!
    Please enter your name here